Iron Factory EX-01 Dinoarmor and Rifle

The following words I do more as a public service announcement versus a review. A little over a year ago, Fall of Cybertron Voyager Class Grimlock was released to much fan fare as the majority of the FoC line had fallen flat with most collectors. Even with Grimlock being a great figure and perhaps the best one in the line, it was missing something. Even with those stubby arms, you can easily put your finger on it and that was the glaring hole in the middle of, oh what am I saying here, OK, the complete lack of a chest and belly in dino mode. In my research for this kit before my original purchase, I found the lack of information outside of what online retailers were saying very disturbing, so without further delay I present to you my public service announcement for all Transformers collectors out there.

Thankfully much like the add-on kit for FoC Ultra Magnus to set him apart from his mould mate Optimus Prime (click here for my review) Iron Factory came to the rescue with their EX-01 Dinoarmor and Rifle. In the small box you receive the parts to fill in the gaping hole in Grimlock's chest, a G1 inspired gun and a some smaller pieces that I will explain later on what their purpose is.

Out of the box you may wonder how a square box will fit in with the curved lines of Grimlock in his Dino Mode but surprisingly it works well.
Using the two posts on the underside of the add-on, and the two conveniently placed peg holes on the underside of Grimlock the whole assembly easily slides in and fits snugly. The colour match is spot on and can be easily mistaken to be part of the figure originally, that is if you didn't know any different. I do not own the Platinum version of Grimlock to test on, but from what I've seen in photos, the Iron Factory kit will also be a good match for the grey used. The main difference between the two being that vacuum gold finish on the chest and neck in the Platinum Version, so I don't see why it wouldn't work.

I know what you might be saying, do I own another add-on that resolves one issue but will I just be left over parts when I transform him? The short answer to that is, no. The chest spits into two and on the ball jointed arms that tuck away on the inside. those two parts move up and out of the way just enough to keep the add-on in place while you complete the transformation as instructed.

Once in bot mode you can position those pieces in behind the shoulders thanks to an additional joint in the centre in the centre of the panel into a similar fashion of the G1 counterpart. Still not 100% certain why it is there, but on the inside of the main panels there is a smaller panel that can be extended out. Maybe someone could answer that question in the comments?

I know to complete the G1 look, those stubby arms need to be hanging off the sides of the panels. I can tell you that Iron Factory was thinking of the G1 purest when designing this set.

The additional parts I spoke if earlier allow you to complete what is called Classic Mode. There are two additional posts that secure into the ports on the chest section. Once pegged in you remove the arms from their original position on the toy and attach them. To complete the look you will need to unpeg the chest panels from the once hidden arms and use the additional parts to peg those panels onto the ball joints that the dino arms were once attached to. Now this does complete the G1 look, I will mention why this is not my preferred mode. One reason why I personally won't be doing this often, is because one of the ball joints that hold the panels was lose from the box. I have gone ahead and placed some clear nail polish on that joint and now the panel and joint hold onto their pose.With all the joints being popped, replaced and repositioned, to limit the wear and tear and for the purposes of photos, this will be the last time.

In the end the G1 look of Grimlock is complete, but you lose so much of what makes this kit great. The first thing is you lose are the joints that assist in transformation, hide in dino mode and hold those panels up in robot mode, now just hang out the back of Grimlock like a couple of useless appendages. A kit that was designed to allow simple transformation between the two modes now becomes a partsformer. You need to pop off the dino arms, their new pegs, and the additional positioning arms and store them where they won't be lost. Once all removed you need to reatttach the chest panels back to the original posts and the dino arms back onto the main Grimlock body. Granted I generally display my figures in bot mode and they are rarely transformed afterwards, but I like to have the option of taking my Grimlock off the shelf and playing with him, transforming him without the need and chance of losing parts. It is for that reason the additional pieces will forever remain in the little bag they first came in.

The next addition to this kit and in all honesty when I picked it up I had completely forgotten about, and that would be the G1 inspired rifle. Yes I know it is on the box and you can see it through the window but it was not until I held the package in hand I recalled it even being there. The dual barrel baster is an upscaled version of the original G1 version. A part of me is tempted to paint it black to match even further to the original, but how will that look in dino mode? Yes Iron Factory even went as far to think of weapon storage in dino mode. The blaster splits in two and using the 5mm ports that hold the original sword and shield, you can attach the two halves of the gun. The snug fit would ware off any paint that I could or would apply but may resolve the anpther issue I do have. While the mounting pegs are a snug fit, the handle of the gun is not. It seems as if the pegs are 5.1mm, while the blaster handle is 4.9mm, just enough that while Grimlock can hold the gun, it does fit loosely in his hand.

Is this kit worth your time, energy and most importantly your money? It does sell on the majority of online retailers sites for under $25US (without shipping) So if you are not concerned with doubling the cost of the Voyager class figure for the sake of filling in a gap I say go for it. I know I was not disappointed with my purchase. The addition of the panels in robot mode do not seem to add an additional kibble. Being on ball joints and the pivot point in the middle of the panel, you can position those panels closer to the body.

The choice of two different display modes and an added weapon are always a bonus. Ease of installation is less than a couple of minutes without any needed kitbashing is also a bonus. Using the ports present on the original model is a great design choice, that in the end would be your choice to glue those posts into position or not. This is a well thought out add-on kit and is a most welcomed addition to my Fall of Cybertron Grimlock even with its flaws of a loose ball joint and small peg on the rifle, but those are little complaints for an add-on that I feel came directly from the Hasbro design table but due to budget constraints was handed off to Iron Factory.  

TheRealRonin
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*EDIT* Well silly me was not thinking when I displayed even all that briefly the kit in Classic Mode. I made mention that the original arms that held on the panel would just be hanging off the back of Grimlock, that statement is wrong. Those arms are held on the same assembly that plugs into Grimlock to which can easily be removed and set aside. The downfall with that is every time you which to transform the figure into Dino mode, you will need to reinsert the assembly, pop off the panels and reattach everything. A bit of a pain in my book but if you want a clean classic look and not worried about the transformation I say why not go ahead. 

Starscream gets his Crown.....and Missiles!

Oh great, yet another Starscream review......haven't you written enough? Well yes, but this one is with a twist. It has less to do with the actual toy or toys but something that is an addition to already two fun toys.

Recently I took the dive and ordered some parts from Shapeways. What I ordered was a weapons pack for Transformers Prime Starscream. as well I ordered a crown for Fall of Cybertron Starscream. Now with this being my first voyage into the world of 3D printing I began the process by researching into the process, the product and it is here I shall share some of my thoughts.

The two kits I purchased were both designed by fakebusker83, so here is a shout out for the work you did! With being my first purchase I went with the safe bet and ordered these parts in White, Strong and Flexible. In my research I found that these parts while strong will arrive with a rough or sandy texture, so some prep work will be required. Once ordered they arrived in about two weeks, with one week to be printed (an odd way to call it) as their order portal shows you the process. They arrived in a box larger than I thought and once opened I see two bubble wrapped rolls. Once unrolled two individual zip lock bags were inside with the parts I order and phew they all arrived in one piece.

As I am inspecting these parts for the first time, and I was surprised that the rough texture was not as "rough" as I thought it would be. Now don't get me wrong, the parts do require some clean up but as as much as I suspected. The first step will need to be to wash off the dust created during the process. A simple dunk inside warm water and dish soap and a gentle rub I was able to remove the dust. Switching to clean, warm water, I washed off the soap residue that might have been left behind and placed the parts out to dry. It is this drying process that I first came across the porous nature of the material. Within the first hour after being washed the parts felt dry to the touch, but not completely. The surface was dry but the parts felt bloated. It was very evident that the material adsorbed quite a bit of water, so I allowed them to air dry for an entire day.

The next day the parts were feeling the way they were when removed from the zip lock bags but of course less dusty. Now began the process on assisting with the removing the roughness of the parts. This step should not be rushed and if all possible done by hand. Now I will admit I have not tried but using any form of a powered tool may cause damage that can be easily avoided. With a quick visit to a local hardware store I grabbed myself a sheet of 600 grit sandpaper. I have used this grit before in model building and I find the versatility of working both dry and wet comes in handy. The crown came by itself, but the missiles packs came attached together, so with gentle pressure with an x-acto knife I separated the pieces.

Starting slowly as I have never dealt with the material before, I began to sand the pieces. As I work on them I find the layer of roughness is only on the surface and so the pieces are getting smoother quicker than I had anticipated. The crown itself needed more attention as I was concern with retaining the details, but with keeping a watchful eye I was able to maintain them. There were some parts that required my trusty hobby knife again, to "dig out" any of the built up material in the edges and ridges. Once I felt I worked my way down to the base model, I used a new piece of 600 grit and dampened it slightly. Going over the parts one more time I finished them off with more of a polished sanding.

After one more dunk in water to remove any remaining dust from the sanding process and a full day to dry, next came painting. In my town there is a local hobby shop that specializes in miniature figures as I figured they were they were the best resource to ask further questions. The Shapeways store itself has quite a few table top game figures, so why not? They recommended to use a Water Based paint because of the overall porous material. With that suggestion I looked to match the colours I required. Going back to my days working in model shops, painting and building model kits I already knew some of the basic. The first being is to make sure your brushes, no matter how cheap of expensive they might be is to make sure that all loose hairs are removed. The next few steps are pretty self explanatory, gather all your materials needed, brushes, water, paints and make sure you are wearing clothes that you don't care if you ruin as accidents can happen. Now once the paints are mixed, shaken or stirred, when applying directly to the brush do not glop on the paint, the less paint the better. You can always go back for more. Utilizing another trick I learned, paper clips are a great tool for holding small parts, if unbent correctly you can apply just enough pressure to hold the part to avoid finger prints and an easier way to manoeuvre the pieces.

Now that you have the basics the rest really only comes with experience to which thankfully I have. The main trick to remember when hand painting any model part is to look at your piece and choose in which direction you will apply the paint. The real trick is to run the brush in one direction when at all possible, doing so eliminates brush stokes and applies each coat evenly. With a light amount of paint on my brush I started to apply the first coat. Due to the prep work I took with these pieces the paint application went smoothly and much to my surprise that it did not soak in as much as I thought it would. The missiles have 3 different colours that needed to be applied, while the crown has only two, but between each colour I allowed all parts to fully dry. The water based paint dried very quickly with the expected matte finish. For the red on the missile warheads and the jewels on the crown I use a oil based paint I had from my G1 Starscream Restoration that was perfect for those parts. If you are going to mix water and oil based paints a word of caution. Yes, it can be done, but make sure it is Oil on top of Water not the other way around as you may have a possible disastrous outcome. The missiles had a detail separating the warhead from the body, but I was not so lucky with the crown, so I had used the gold paint as a base coat or primer for the red jewels.

Once all the touch ups were completed, I set the pieces aside to dry. In my opinion this is the worse part of model painting as they are all completed but you should not touch. I have been testing fitting the parts all throughout the sanding process, but now that they have a coat of paint I wanted to see the fruits of my labours. After waiting impatiently for a day the time had come to places the pieces on their respective figures.

First I will start with FoC Starscream. When the crown is attached it will need to be removed before any transformations, but it really helps set him aside from his mould mates, Thundercracker and Skywarp. I wished I had some clear finish to spray on the crown to add some shine and gloss, but for such a small part it can wait till I borrow some. The crown is very well designed as it fits of the head beautifully. It clips in to the back of the head and yet can be easily removed for transformation.

Moving on to Transformers Prime Starscream, he now has screen accurate single missiles, versus the rubber cluster pack. Now if you are a fan of the cluster pack, the weapons kit does include them along with replacement head and knee spikes. I am in no rush to replace those parts, as the soft rubber works for me, but those clusters just had to go!

Fitting in the same ports as the originals, they easily slip on and like the crown can be removed for transformation. The posts on the forearms later become part of the rear tail section but there are matching ports under the wings. Now this is where you need to be careful as the wing posts seem to be just slightly bigger than those on the forearms.
When placing them under the wings, apply the pressure directly above the post and missile. Anywhere may cause warping or even worse cause the part to break. I guess that is score one for the useless rubber pods because they flex to the posts easier. Unlike the crown I will not be applying any clear coats to the missiles. To keep with the screen accurate look of a matte finish fins, bracket and body of the missile, while the warhead tends to be glossy, to which was accomplished with the oil based paint.

For my first ever purchase on Shapeways, I will say I am quite impressed and all my preconceived notions were quickly quieted once I began to work with the material. If you are planning to get some parts for yourself, you will need to consider what material you wish to work with. WS&F is the cheaper and strongest material they offer, but it does dilute some of the details and does require quite a bit of prep work. Other materials like Polished come in a variety of colours and eliminate the majority of the prep work, but that comes at a slightly higher price. The Detailed material is by far for capturing details the best to choose, but the costs can add up and the material has a rubbery, or as some of the information I read can be slightly more brittle in nature.

I have shared just some of my experiences with my first ever walk into the future. There is another piece that I have been eyeing for a bit, and if I do order it, I will either select the Polished material, or even take the full on plunge and go with the Detailed material. I bet you can guess which piece if you have had a look at fakebusker83's page, and the one photo I have added on what piece I will be look into getting. If you have a guess, leave a comment below and see if you are correct. 

Also a shout out to the boys at Transmissions Podcast in helping with the final pieces in my research and learning of 3D Printed parts as well the folks and puppy at Imperial Hobbies for leading me in the right direction for paint. All your efforts are greatly appreciated and I thank-you.

 
TheRealRonin
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So....How big is the broad side of this barn?

Hello Transformer fans this review is inspired by a recent online order to Shapeways. Now this review is not what I purchased, I shall leave for a later but it is an add on of another kind. I am no stranger to add on kits or accessories, if you recall my review of FoC Ultra Magnus with the KFC KP-01UM kit. I have a few others that I could mention but this is not why were here.

This review is for Make Toys add on for their version of IDW's Swerve named Trash-Talk, but with the Hasbro release of an official Legand's Class Swerve I figured, why not?

The blaster comes in a nondescript brown box. The front with a simple line drawing and on the back the assembly instructions. Opening the box you quickly find out this is a model kit coming in on 4 different sprues. This kit has no real instructions outside of the pictures but I did read that no glue would be required.Once I started piecing the parts together that statement could not be any more accurate. All the parts fit well with each other and snuggly. Now in the end there were couple of pieces I did end up gluing together but that is no real fault of the kit. The piece that sits on top of the barrel I felt needed a touch of glue just to hold it in place better The second part I needed to glue was my fault. One of the six coloured bulbs near the rear of the blaster, I had accidentally trim down the stem slightly too much and in doing so that piece never fully sits in the corresponding port causing it to fall out.

The blaster is a awesome representation of the version given to Swerve in the IDW comic book series. The main body has painted pieces as well as a tampographed "My First Blaster" on the side. Once all pieced together I could not wait to have Swerve hold it and oh no, it fits loose in his hand. On further research I find that Trash-Talk has 4mm hands, while Hasbro has their traditional 5mm. How did I fix that problem? I did what any great handy man would do and reached for a roll of Duct Tape! Cutting a piece of duct tape the same length of the 4mm handle. I started to wrap the handle and sadly I cannot recall how many times around but I was able to make up the 1mm difference.

With a touch of glue and tape Swerve has a handy little weapon to wield while Flanker is off flying on a mission of his own, or Swerve can go all gangster while attempting to blow away Decepticons with dual blasters.....that is if he actually hits anything.

TheRealRonin
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The stickers make the Robot

In a previous review I went over the figure that rekindled my enjoyment of Transformers. While handling my dollar store Devastator, I was amazed with some of the paint apps, the build quality and the over look of the pieces, but I felt something was missing.

While reviewing the originals in the photo galleries available on www.seibertron.com I noticed that these figures were closer to the originals than I had first imagined. That realization started the wheels in my head spinning and I wondered if Reprolabels had a complete set to provide me with some extra details. That answer is yes.

This is the first time I have order from Reprolabels. I could only go by other reviews that I have read or seen, so I was wandering into uncharted waters. I easily order the set through their site via PayPal and in a week they arrived. They arrived inside a plain envelope with my name and address, sandwiched between two cardboard pieces to prevent bending during shipping. With my order came my set for Devastator, replacements for my original G1 Sandstorm, as well a very pleasant surprise of clear Autobot and Decepticon faction symbols.

With all the eagerness of a child at Christmas, I began the process of removing the stickers that were already present on the figures and the decisions begin. Do I remove them all or keep some? The choice was made to remove them all and the pain staking task of the goop removal that follows. Some were easier to remove than others, but in the end I had six naked figures ready for their transplant.

Being the first time I have held Reprolabels, I will admit my preconceived notions I my have had were quickly gone. I first thought they would be identical to the stickers I am familiar with as a child but I could not be more mistaken. They are thinner than the originals but do not let that fool you. I feel these stickers are even better quality then the ones that came with Metroplex.

I picked Not Mix Master as my first subject. Once I got the stickers removed using my finger nails, cleaning wipes to loosen up the paper and a good deal of elbow grease, I was ready to begin. As I started I noticed that I have mistransformered Mix Master the entire time, a fact that I'm surprised no one pointed out to me in my last review. It did not take long for me to wonder how I did this as a child without the patience that I have gained over time and a good pair of tweezers. You can see from the placement of one sticker on the chest it is not correctly placed.

For being a knock off, I am impressed that each sticker went exactly were it should go without any overahang. There was only one alteration that needed to be done. On Mix Master the level to launch the missile that plugs into the top of his head is placed in the centre versus near the top on the original. I cut the sticker from the sheet and from an eyeball measurement cut the sticker once again to fit around the lever. Another addition would be after I removed the sticker that was around the drum. To remove the bland look I used a couple clear Decepticon symbols from the freebie sheet to add some additional details.

Short of that one alteration, the rest of the stickers were applied in their correct locations. The transformation (pardon the pun) is impressive. Minus the multicoloured difference, these figures could now pass for off brand originals. The 6 members of Devastator look like they finally belong to the Decepticons, faction symbols and all. The original stickers were boring in comparison, and they add the extra details to blank areas that were overlooked by the original labels or paint applications.

In the past I have only ever displayed the team in their combined mode, but now I am debating if I want to keep them combined? For now I shall keep them combined but I would feel no shame in the future showing off the members in their individual alt and robot modes. Spending nearly 2 hours of removing and applying stickers, I will without a shadow of a doubt recommend this set to anyone with an original or KO Devastator. I cannot wait till the time I can add some fresh life into the G1 Sandstorm that I have had since a child, but that will need to wait.

The following is a side by side comparison of the figures so you can be the judge. Tell me what you think by leaving a comment. I feel I made the right choice but it still feels odd about putting $13 stickers on a $6 toy. 

TheRealRonin
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Always Second in Command and Never a Prime

It has been brought to my attention that I have only done reviews of the bad guys. Well can you blame me? It's the bad guys that have the best lines, the best weapons and well being the bad guy has (at least in my unsubstantiated opinion) always been cool.

Well who am I not to give into peer pressure? As you may have guessed if you have been following this blog, I like to go slightly against convention. I could select everyone's favourite good guy in Optimus Prime, or I could go with (or it seems) everyone's favourite yellow car BumbleBee, but I'm not. Also I'm not picking some obscure character that only three people other than myself have heard of. I have chosen the bride's maid of the Prime linage. I present to you Fall of Cybertron Deluxe Class, Ultra Magnus.

I know what am I doing here? I am just giving you a repaint of the FoC Optimus Prime, why not review him instead? Well hold on to your hats, there's more! Have a closer look, notice anything new? That's right, this is a two for one review, as I also have the Keith's Fantasy Club KP-01UM addon kit. This kit helps set apart the two moulds and brings in some G1 goodness to a newer figure.

Now for a deluxe, this figure is slightly smaller than what we are familiar with in this size class, a trend that thankfully seemed to start and end with the Fall of Cybertron line. This is where the KP-01UM kit comes in handy (calling it a KFC addon make it seem like I am getting an extra side of coleslaw)

I read and heard some chatter over this mould and compared with the War for Cybertron Prime, and yes I will agree that the WFC Prime is a great figure, but the Optimus version for FoC does fail, but for once in Ultra Magnus colours this figure shines. On top of the paint scheme the addition of the KP Kit with the shoulder pylons and missile launchers make this figure scream Magnus. The majority of the figure is not paint application, but moulded plastic. There are red, white and silver details on the chest, which carry through onto the thighs and feet. On both shoulders there is an Autobot symbol. The head sculpt looks like a traditional Magnus, with the high antenna and pronounced chin but that head does look tiny when compared to the large chest. There is no light piping, but the eyes are painted red on a white face. The wheels are all plastic, with silver trim hub caps.The front wheels facing inwards on the forearms, while the rear wheels can be seen on the sides of the legs.

The KP-01UM shoulder pylons just friction fit into the smoke stacks
that are folded down on the shoulders and the missile launchers just fit into a slot on the sides of the arms. The complete kit itself is just packaged in a small bubble pack with no real instructions. The pegs on the missile launchers need to be inserted and the reason for this is to allow posibility and movement of those launchers and aide in transformation. Ultra Magnus also comes with 2 weapons, the first is the same blaster FoC Optimus Prime came with. On its own it is a good representation of a G1 blaster, but more suited for Optimus. Th second is a giant sword that Magnus could challenge Crocodile Dundee to a "Now....this is a knife!" competition and win easily. So you have a giant sword and a lack lustre blaster, but what can you do? Well I will tell you, the sword separates into three pieces and can be merged with the blaster, making the Ultra Magnus Ultra Mega Blaster. If you cannot get the matrix of Leadership might as well have a kick a** weapon!

Moving onto articulation. The head is on a ball joint allowing a full 360 degree spin and some movement up and down. There is an waist swivel mainly from transformation. The shoulders are on a ball joint so they can complete a full 360 as well as pivot in and out. The upper arm is on a swivel and there is a simple joint at the elbow. The fist can turn 360 degrees but it is not on a ball joint so there is no rist tilts. On to the main issue with this figure, the hips. They are your standard ball and socket joint that plug into the upper thigh on a swivel allowing some great poseibiltiy but they are extremely loose. Now they are not so loose as in the figure cannot stand under its own weight, but just loose enough that it may fall over if you have the figure in a complex pose. The knee can bend more than 90 degrees, but again due in part to the transformation that also makes for an weird look when bent due to the figure's larger than average calves. The feet are on a ball joint, but they do not have much of a pivot due to the large lower legs.

Thanks to all those moving joints, this figure folds in on itself quite well making for a small vehicle mode even when compared to other deluxe figures in the same series. The first thing you want to do is take the fists and turn them 180 degrees. Now you can unpeg the feet and on the joint move them up and forward, push the legs together fitting the pegs into the corresponding holes and flip them up over the thighs from behind. On the back of the figure there is a small plate that fits in with just friction, pop that plate up and push it towards the back of the head. That action will move the arms via a poorly executed auto-morph. The "feature" now adds the step of having the move the arms out of the way for the following. At the waist there is the ball joint that allows the swivel, move it up and back, there are two pegs where the feet are and they slot into the two ports on the back just below what appear to be thrusters. On the back of the shoulders you will see exhaust pipes, move them up, so they are now parallel with the rest of the arm. Now turn the forearm 180 degrees so the wheel is facing the outward and bend back at the elbow. On the now inside part of the arm we have another peg and slot that fit into the side of the cab which aide in holding the front end together. The last piece to complete is the front bumpers that hangs on the forearms with for no purpose other than to be a front bumper. The two halves are on a ball joint, so you need to twist them around 90 degrees. Now keep in mind one half fits into the other. One side has a puzzle style piece connector, followed by the second half with the slot for that piece. And there you go, Ultra Magnus in a Cybertrionian truck mode.

If you have the add-on kit, you can skip the step with moving the exhaust pipes to leave and the pylons in place, but I personally like the look of those big pipes. The missile launchers can remain in place and thankful to the peg and slot construction you can move them easily into a forward facing position. As I stated before, this is a small deluxe in vehicle mode, and being a big truck it would scale better with the smaller figures versus its fellow deluxe class comrades. Since this is a fold and twist transformation, there is not much new to report that you did not already see in robot mode other than painted white arms are slightly more pronounced.

There is weapon storage via a hole on the bottom of the foot and flipping the blaster upside down, you can also place the sword in an available port near the rear wheels but I just feel that this looks silly. The figure does have free moving wheels and does roll nicely, but as you may have guessed short of the cool exhaust pipes this is not my favourite mode.

In short, out of all the Optimus Prime moulds to be repainted into Ultra Magnus, this is by far one of my favourites that I have ever come across, all for the simple fact that it does not look like just another Prime repaint. When placing them side by side, this is the rare situation that it looks like Prime is a repaint of Magnus. Add to that, the Keith's Fantasy Club KP-01UM addon, to which I highly recommend, it adds just that last missing piece to make this figure truly Ultra Magnus.

TheRealRonin
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